State of Emergency

So I really do intend to post a blog about the experience of being an international election observer Sunday, but there is some other news that sort of takes priority at the moment: as of last night, President Enkhbayar has called an official State of Emergency here in Mongolia. For the birds-eye level explanation of the situation, read these articles:

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/7483286.stm

http://edition.cnn.com/2008/WORLD/asiapcf/07/01/mongolia.emergency.ap/index.html

Basically, Democratic Party (DP) supporters are alleging that the MPRP offered outrageously large bribes to members of the GEC in exchange for counts in their favor. Preliminary results show the MPRP claiming a solid majority in parliament--which yesterday incited large crowds of protesters to violence. I won't bother with any political analysis here; instead I'll just recount what little involvement I've had in the situation.

The demonstrations began Monday night, but at that time it wasn't clear whether there was any threat of violence. I first encountered large crowds as Emma and I walked back to our dorms from a late night out at a restaurant called Veranda. We had just walked back with Alice to her hotel, the Bayangol, and were making our way back up the street toward Sukhbaatar Square when we heard the roar of a crowd marching toward us. However, the general drone was accompanied by wild whistling and laughter, which suggested to us that it was a jubilant, pro-MPRP crowd rather than a belligerent mob. Fortunately for us, we were right, and the crowd passed by without incident. It was fairly remarkable though; there were 500+ people filling the road from one end to the other. Traffic came to a halt as the procession winded through the streets.

We made it back to the dorms safely, never having felt legitimately threatened. Demonstrations continued through the night and in the morning it appeared as though additional police forces had been deployed to the Square. However, I passed right by the Square in the morning after picking up coffee and at that time everything was calm. The entire workday proceeded without any indication that trouble was brewing. Even at six in the evening as I walked home, I had no sense that something was amiss. At seven Alice called and we made a plan to meet out in front of the UB Hotel, just east of the Square, in case another demonstration had begun. Approaching the hotel, I first realized that something was wrong. A large, roiling crowd had gathered out in front of the MPRP headquarters, adjacent to the UB Hotel. There was a large column of gray smoke rising out of the southeastern corner of the building, and when I looked more closely, I realized that protesters were hurling stones, concrete, and whatever other shrapnel they could get their hands on at the building. The meager police force stationed there responded in kind, and fired off rubber bullets as well. Growing nervous for my own safety, and for Alice's, I called her back, asking her to turn around and to instead meet me at Grand Khaan, a restaurant a safe distance southwest of the Square. No sooner had I hung up than I saw a large group of people rushing frantically toward me--or, more accurately, away from the MPRP building. I didn't wait to find out what exactly they were running from. Spinning on my heel, I sprinted away with them. However, I hadn't recognized the urgency of flight sufficiently soon, and within seconds I began to feel a powerful stinging in my eyes and a constrictive burning in my nose and throat. Looking around me as I ran, I saw people to my left and right holding their shirts up over their faces to filter out what could only be, I realized, tear gas.

Fortunately, I had been nowhere near the source of the gas, so I was able to sprint to safety relatively unharmed. The effects of the gas dissipated within minutes, so I began to work my way west, clear-headed but cautious. Looking back, I was able to see the flames rising from the base of the MPRP building.

I met Alice outside the Grand Khaan; we were both genuinely relieved to see one another safe, and bemused that less than an hour earlier we had been contentedly oblivious to the rising violence. Determining it unsafe to travel east, we wandered west in search of a place to get dinner. For the next couple of hours at Nayra Cafe, everything was calm--and normal--again. It wasn't until around 10 or 11, when we met up with a couple of friends at a bar south of there that we saw the live footage of the Square. Rioting, bonfires, burning buildings. While we felt safe inside the bar, we were wary of venturing back out into the open air. I was especially nervous, considering that in order to get back to my dorm I would either have to pass the Square directly or find an alternate route that would entail taking back alleys--which we all considered to be equally dangerous. Graciously, Alice offered to let me crash at the hotel (which was nearby and in the opposite direction of the Square), so I never had to make my way home last night. As we walked back to the Bayangol, we could see buildings and thick smoke illuminated by the many fires blazing throughout the Square. We checked the news repeatedly last night for any additional updates. This morning we discovered a note that the hotel staff had slid under the door, informing us that President Enkhbayar has declared a State of Emergency for the next four days. Among other things, this means that the police have imposed a 10 pm curfew for the city; looks like I won't be going out much for the rest of the week!

Walking back to my dorm this morning, the streets were eerily muted. Very little traffic passed by, and though there were many people on the sidewalks, discussions were hushed and dark if they were held at all. East of the square, I first witnessed the manifestation of the emergency decree: tanks. Military personnel have been deployed throughout the city and there are tanks stationed seemingly at every second intersection one passes. The MPRP building is charred and gutted, but it actually managed to survive in better shape than the nearby national art museum.

In case anyone is worried, I am safe. The city seems calm and the police and military are maintaining peace. I can't say with certainty that further protests won't break out, but for now I don't feel any serious threat of danger. So don't worry about me! We will take care of each other over here. More than likely, things will return to normal shortly and we'll ease right back into the daily grind. This weekend, though we had planned to celebrate the fourth of the July at the U.S. embassy weenie roast, it's looking like with the stress of the week, we're all more inclined to just get the hell out of UB. It's looking like Hustai National Park (with Przewalski's horses!!) is the place to be this weekend. I'll let you know how it is--and hopefully I'll figure out a way to upload some pictures! Stay well.